I buy GQ. I get a free e-mail, but it will typically print at newsstand before my copy arrives, and I can't wait to get there and reading my column and cackle in my own cleverness, so I buy one. I just bought the men of the year in question and had to choose which cover to purchase. I went to Clint Eastwood. I love how great Clint looks even though they are old enough to be my father. (I ask my mom about it.) Anyway, I was reading it The Style Guy, and I came to this issue of double-breasted Blazers from poor fellow who thought, you might need to be royalty to wear them, After reassuring him that the bourgeoisie can share this Look I went on to explain the "double-breasted inherent dressy, so never wearing a button down shirt with it." I say that although I do not believe in rules as much as common sense, this is a principle that I have followed for as long as I can remember.
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But I think I was wrong about a rule. It came to me late at night in the week when my pre-unconsciousness driver I set to TCM and it was Fred Astaire, whirling around in a movie called Yolanda and the thief. It is a 1945 film, Vincente Minnelli, and like many of his other films it is visually stunning. The design looks like Salvador Dalí had a hand in it. It is a fantasy about an elegant politician (played by Fred, natch) in a fictitious South American country. The production is so elaborate and over-the-top that I think it broke the record for losing money again. Anyway, Fred whirling soothing and athletic Louise Bremer around like a top, and I noticed that they always impeccable hoofer was dressed, Yes, a button down shirt with a double breasted suit!
Lucille Bremer breast, by the way, is far from its current size.
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In any case, will watch a film with Fred Astaire or a fictitious South American country in it, this is both. It also has the additional attraction of Frank Morgan, who is even more sly here than in the main role of The Wizard of Oz. Plus, the script is written by one of my very favorite, the enchanting Ludwig Bemelmans. He wrote and illustrated all these Madeleine and wrote perhaps the funniest novel about Hollywood ever – Dirty Eddie. And for those of you New York cocktail bar go, he is the fellow who made murals of you guessed, Bemelman's Bar at the Carlyle Hotel, one of the best places to have a drink in Manhattan. Someday I will go on and detail to greatness by Ludwig Bemelmans, but it is a double-breasteds with button-downs, so ….
This is by the way, Mr. Bemelmanns (note the belt without loops, cigar in the brush by hand.)
And this is peace, double buttoned-up and alone buttoned down.
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A revelation! But one would expect nothing less from peace and Mr. Vincente Minnelli. Minnelli was a true artist, sometimes had a negative impact on his box office, but if he had not gone completely over the top would not us films as cabin in the Sky, The Pirate, Brigadoon or An American in Paris (all with Gene Kelly), Kismet, the bad and the beautiful and Lust for Life (with Kirk Douglas), Gigi, designing Woman … Minnellis movies are incredibly stylish and sometimes exaggerated, but in a good way. Andrew Sarris wrote that Minnelli believed more in the beauty than in art. Now that might not be so bad.
Anyway got to see peace in his double-breasted suits me to reconsider the sartorial principal I have lived with since … well, ever since I have had a double breasted jacket. It is just to show, the men's dressing is not legally binding, more than any other form of common sense. And the people who really know the rules can break them, often with excellent results. Peace is never wrong.
So I put on a Black Fleece by Thom Browne for Brooks Brothers checked button down collar shirt, this relatively new tie from the Agnès b. (which just closed, unfortunately their Soho men's store), and my old gray double-breasted costumes from John Pearse, who is more open than ever in London's Soho, and I must say that it worked. The secret, I think, is that there must be a pretty high-closing double-breasted jacket.
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